The Front Runner Slimline II Roof Rack For The 3rd Gen Sequoia: Limitless Customizability & Functionality With A Rugged, Sophisticated Look
There are a few roof rack options currently available for the 3rd Gen Sequoia. Most of them look and function the same, but the Front Runner Slimline II roof rack is in a class of its own.
If you want to stand out from the rest of the crowd, this is your best option. The Slimline II is hands down, the most durable and configurable rack on the market right now. In my opinion, it’s the best roof rack platform currently available for the 3rd Gen Sequoia.
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Front Runner Slimline II Roof Rack
Table of Contents
Product Overview
Improve your Sequoia’s cargo-carrying capabilities with the super-strong Front Runner Slimline II roof rack. It features a wind deflector that will keep noise levels to an absolute minimum and integrated storage underneath the foot rails for a folding table. This is the perfect rack to haul bikes, a kayak, or any other adventure gear.
It’s also fully capable with the panoramic moonroof!
Installation
Tools Needed:
- Tape measure
- Auto Dash Trim Removal Kit
- 10mm & 13mm wrenches & sockets
- 4mm & 5mm allen wrenches
- Waterproofing (silicone) sealant
- Torx T30
- Spare Clips & Pugs
Step 1. Drop Headliner
This is the first time that I dropped a headliner in any of my vehicles. It’s not difficult, but it is tedious and time-consuming. I encourage you to take your time so that you don’t accidentally tear anything.
Remove Visors
Start popping off the clips covering up the swivel attachment. Then, remove the two screws beneath them.
Finally, grab and twist the visor clamps 45° and pull down to remove.
Drop Overhead Console
Pull or pry from the windshield side of the console because the rear-facing side doesn’t have clips.
Be sure to disconnect the wire harnesses underneath before completely removing it.
Remove Grab Handles
Pop off the covers (two per handle) so that you can access and remove the screws.
Remove Front Door Seal Gaskets
Grab a corner and gently pull the gasket down and out. Then, place them out of the way.
Pull Apart A Pillar Trim
Grab from the top and gently start pulling down and out. Be cautious of the tweeter speaker that’s attached to the trim piece.
Remove 2nd Row Grab Handles
First, pop off the covers (two per handle) by using two small flathead screwdrivers or 90° gasket seal hooks (example) and pulling them towards you.
With the covers off, you can then squeeze the two metal camps to remove the handles.
Pull Down 2nd Row Door Seal Gaskets
Grab a corner and gently pull the gasket down. You don’t have to pull these completely out, so just pull them down to the floorboard and then lay them out of your way.
Pull Apart B Pillar Trim
Start by pulling down at the top of the bottom trim piece so that you have full access to the upper trim. Once the bottom piece is pulled out of the way, you’ll then see two black plugs in the bottom of the upper trim piece that you’ll need to pop out.
Pop those out and you can then finish removing the top trim piece. You’ll be able to let it hang with the seatbelt vs removing it completely.
Pull Down Rear Door Seal Gasket
Grab a corner and gently pull the gasket down. You don’t have to pull these completely out, so just pull them down to the floorboard and then lay them out of your way.
Pull Apart Cargo Area Trim
You can start anywhere, but be careful to try and avoid breaking any of the plastic clips.
Don’t forget to remove the trim above the side cargo windows.
To separate the lower black plastic from the upper plastic, insert your pry tool and pull it towards you.
There are some tricky sections of trim that would require you to slide the trim piece in a particular direction while removing or else you’ll break the plastic red plug. Lucky for you you already have spare plugs, making this much easier!
Step 2. Remove Factory Roof Rails
Unlike the other rook rack options, Front Runner requires you to remove the factory rails. However, you’ll still utilize most of the factory mounting points (no drilling required) and the installation will look so much cleaner. This is because you’re not mounting to or around the existing rails. This also makes for a much more robust installation.
The peace of mind is well worth the extra effort, in my opinion.
Pop off Caps & Unscrew Accessible Bolts
Pull off each of the four plastic caps and unscrew each of the bolts (one per cap).
Unscrew Remaining Bolts From Within the Cabin
There are an additional 14 bolts (7 on each side) that you’ll need to unscrew the nuts from within the cabin.
Pry Off The Rails
Once you’ve removed all 18 bolts, you can then use a pry bar to pop off the plastic OEM rails. You’ll need to put some force into this to remove them. You’re also going to break some plastic pins, but don’t worry about that.
Plug Un-needed Holes
Fit the M6x25 button head screws and M6x12x1 flat washers to the 4th & 5th holes from the rear. Add some silicone around the threads for waterproofing. Do this on both the left and right sides of the roof.
Step 3. Assemble Side Rails
Assemble the rear foot rails using the provided joiner plates, M6 x 16 button head screws, and M6 nyloc nuts. Fully tighten them.
*Tightening Torque 9 – 11 Nm / 6.6 – 8.1 ft-lb
Attach the style plate to the assembly by inserting the M6 x 25 countersink screw through the bottom of the spacer and through the foot rail and plate. Use the M6 nyloc nut and fully tighten it. Then, place the M6 nut cap over the nyloc nut. Apply the 19mm x 50mm VHB Tape 3M to the underside of the spacer.
*Do not remove the backing tape yet.
Step 4. Adhere Factory Nuts To Inner Roof
To secure the foot rails, the factory nuts need to be adhered to the inner roof skin. This will make the rack easily removable if needed.
Unroll the 350mm long strip of VHB tape and place the eight M8 and ten M10 factory flange nuts onto it and press down firmly. Trim the excess tape to separate the nuts and pierce a hole with a screwdriver to allow a screw to be inserted.
Have a friend help with this step. Using a M6 and M8 screw, insert it into the corresponding hole and remove the VHB backing from the appropriate side nut. Then, have your friend screw it on by a few threads from the inside of the vehicle. From the outside, pull the screw upward to adhere it to the inner roof skin. Once the nut is adhered to the roof, remove the screw. Repeat this with all the other nuts.
Step 5. Install Side Rails On Roof
Lift the foot rail over the roof and position it onto the spacers placed earlier. Using the M6x35 screws together with M6x19 x 1 flat washers, loosely tighten the LH and RH ditch rear screws.
Lift the foot rails slightly in the front and remove the VHB backing. Then, lower the foot rails and position the front foot centrally in the ditch. Fit the remaining M6 screws and washers as well as the eight M8x35 screws and M8 washers. Fully tighten all screws and place nut caps over all the screw heads.
*Tightening Torque: M8 : 15-20Nm / 11.06 ft-lb – 14.75 ft-lb
Step 6. Assemble Rack Tray
Join Side Profile Rails
The side profiles are supplied in pairs. Take one profile from each pair, one short and one long. On them, you will see that at one end there is a hole that goes through the top and bottom of the “U” Channel.
Insert a thick joiner into the “U” Channel of the side profile while lining up the first hole with the hole in the side profile.
Next, grab a thin joiner and nyloc nut. Slide the joiner into the “T-slot”, followed by a nyloc nut. The nut should sit on top of the joiner with the “Dome” of the nut facing up. Line up the outer hole with the joiner hole and loosely fasten it all together using the included M8 x 45 button head bolt and a 5mm Allen Wrench.
Slide the matching side profile over the two joiner pieces, remembering to insert a nyloc nut, and fasten once again using an M8 x 45 button head bolt. Repeat the above steps for the other side.
Combination Slats
Turn the combination slat and the side profile assembly upside down. Ensure that the nut in the slat is at the bottom. Then, push one end of the slat into the side profile assembly and align the holes.
Use a M8 x 25 Button Head and loosely tighten using a 5mm Allen Wrench. Do the same with a second combination slat on the other end of the side profile assembly.
Next, take a standard slat and slide one end into the side profile assembly. Again, ensure that the nut is at the bottom. Use an M8 x 25 button head bolt and loosely secure the standard slat to the side profile using a 5mm Allen Wrench.
Repeat this process for the remaining standard slats making sure that there is an open hole in the Side Profile in between each slat.
Then, take the opposite side profile assembly and start inserting the other end of the slats, aligning the holes and loosely inserting the M8 x 25 button head bolts accordingly.
Standard Slats
Square up the side profiles and slats before fully tightening all the bolts. I measured the distance between the two front corners and two back corners to double-check.
*The recommended torque setting for the M8 button head bolts is 20 Nm or 15 ft-lb.
Corners
Flip the tray right side up and push the corner into position as shown, aligning the hole with the rivnut already inserted in the combination slat. Use a M6 x 12 button head bolt to secure the corner in position.
Wind Deflectors
Insert two button head bolts, M8 half nuts, and Schnorr washer assemblies into the combination slat. Then, slide them to the center of the slat making sure that the washer is above the T-slot channel.
Next, insert the nut attached to the wind deflector in the T-slot and slide it to the side. Repeat for the other half of the Wind Deflector.
Center the wind deflector on the rack and tighten the nuts.
Step 7. Fit & Secure Rack to Roof Rails
Get a friend to help you lift the rack up and over your roof. Then, line it up to the foot rails using M8 x 20 hex bolts, M8 x 16 x 1.6 flat washers, and M8 nyloc nuts. Finally, place M8 nut caps on them.
Repeat this on all mounting foot rails and you’re done!
Final Thoughts
I absolutely love this rack. The Front Runner Slimline II continues to deliver on a reputation for durable, capable, and functional overlanding gear that looks great.
My Sequoia no longer sounds like it’s on an airport runway about to take off (if you ever had the OEM rack, then you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about). There’s still substantial noise if you open your moonroof while driving, I plan on fabricating a different wind deflector to address this once I’ve determined my front lighting setup.
There’s also zero movement noise from the rack when the vehicle is articulating over uneven terrain, which is reassuring.
I’m excited to figure out how to utilize this rack with the plethora of available accessories fully, it’s definitely a great problem to have. See you on the trails!
